New Products coming soon
New Products coming soon
This past Sunday was Fathers Day and we were at a local Flea Market with our triangle shelves, shadow boxes and some garden benches.
This was a fast seller on Fathers Day
I can make more of this style and I can also take special requests.
I’ve been having so much fun doing decoupage, from Inspirational signs to animals. There is so many possibilities using Mog-Poge.
The triangle shelves and shadow boxes have been big big sellers and I”ve been building like crazy to keep up with the orders. So my time for blogging has been cut..
But I’m also working on some special promotions and I’ll keep you my followers in the loop.
Its been quite busy since I last made a post. Ive been selling the Triangle Shelves like crazy!!
And my decoupage has been selling quick,
I must thank my followers from Instagram and FB for the exposure. I’m learning as much as i can with blogging there so much more to this than you first think.
This is my latest decoupage / mod-podge project. I used some techniques that I have enjoyed and combined them into this sign.
I used some reclaimed 1×4 wood that i had from other projects and simply nailed them to a couple 1×2’s for backing.
Next I got some chalk paint and applied it to the wood. Through my trial and errors I discovered that when you apply your image with the mod-podge and go to the removal of pulp step you will remove the chalk-paint as you remove the pulp.
TIP You need to seal the paint before you add your your image that you want to transfer. I have used lacquer to seal the paint. You can use other things such as polycrylic.
After you add your image to transfer and it has dried over night you can safely remove the white pulp by gently using a wet cloth.
When you expose the image and have removed most of the white pulp, I use my fingers to remove the remaining paper being careful not to rub too hard and remove your transfer image.
Let it finally dry and you should see your image. If there is a little white leftover just wet your fingers and gently rub the remaining paper away.
For me it was alot of trial and error to get the procedure down right.
Sorry For the long delay between posts but I’ve been busy filling orders for some new pallet shelving a client asked me if i could make.
My client saw this unique pallet shelf on Pinterest and asked if I could make one for her. Well of course I accepted the request. And I’m happy to say that she is a Happy Customer.
Below is the photo she sent me of her Triangle Pallet Shelf all set up !! 🙂
I`m happy to announce that more are being made.
Hello !! Once again we got some nice weather here and the chance to build !!
Kids table with reclaimed wood.
For this project I used the same build technique that i used with my bench builds and others. I put the sides together first.
I took the height from another kids table. The top is 2ft x2ft .. I used a pallet cut at 2ft to be the cross bar. Once i had two sides made, it was easy to attach the other two sides.
Once again I assembled it upside down. this keeps the top flush and straight when attaching the two ends together. This makes your top frame.
For the table top i used tongue and groove cedar fence board. Just cut to length and push the boards together and nail.
I personally have found the Ryobi Air Strike nail gun a huge asset to anyone’s tool box. This is NOT an affiliate link.
To finish the top i used just some 1×2’s and attached around the top.
I have some chalk board paint, so i’m going to paint the table top with that so it can be a kids chalk board table.
Stay Tuned for next post 🙂
Hello and welcome to Spring !! The time is coming for outdoor builds. This one is a different style of garden benches than i did last year. This time i’m using two boards for the legs instead of just one, and i can get a better overall look.
For my project i’m using some reclaimed cedar fence boards for the legs. I cut each leg to 16 inches. It seems to be a comfortable height.
Then measure in 2 inches, that will be your foot width. Use your chop saw and set it at 45 degrees, it doesn’t matter which way you set it to the left or right. Just make sure your boards are flush and even when you cut leaving the 2 inches for the foot. You’ll end up with two sets like this
Next is two take your pallet board and measure the width of the top of your legs so you can attach them together. Your measurements will vary slightly depending on the type of wood you are going to use.
Its always easier to show you than to try and explain the steps 🙂
Make sure your top and sides are all even and flush. I use gorilla wood glue, and my Ryobi Air strike nail gun to attach the pallet cross stringer. I also screwed the wood together even though the nails and glue would have been enough.
I’m building these for life outside. 🙂
These ARE NOT Affiliate Links
Here are the ends all ready for the cross members that will make up the length of the bench.
I choose to use the pallet wood once again for this part. I set the length at an even 2 feet.
Once i cut and sanded the two boards , I turned the ends upside down so I could keep everything flush and level.
This is the easiest way I found to keep the sides at 90 degrees. Once again I used my nail gun to hold the parts together so I could screw them together when everything was aligned.
Now that everything is level and flush the only remaining step is of course the seat. Here could choose to do either the length or the width of the bench. I decided to do one of each.
My first bench i used pallet wood and attached them along the length of the bench.
My other bench i decided to use some fence board off cuts to make the seat .
Hope everyone has as much fun with this build as I did 🙂
Hello friends now that i finish the Pallet Trunk I have also been working on a Harvest Table. Now I know what your going to say ” There Huge!!” Well generally yea they are on the large size.
I was able to get some reclaimed 2×6, 2×8’s and some bigger. Some were 8 feet and longer. When i got them home , I have to really look at them. Some had big cracks and wouldn’t work for what i had in mind. SO instead of dumping them, I used the table saw and ripped the ones i couldn’t use into 2×4’s and 2×2’s
So right now just finished the last steps of stain the table top and added the first coat of Polycrylic.
Because ive used reclaimed wood my original plan was to make two 5 foot tables that i could put together to make one large one. That dint work because there were too many that had cracks in them. *Lesson in reclaimed wood. You have to adapt to what you get.
Here is the finished table !!
This is a shot of the wood when i got it.
After selecting the best 2×6’s for the table, with no cracks and best character i sanded all the dirt and weathered surface.
This took several passes with the belt sander working from 60 grit to 150 and finally 220. Below was a mock-up of what the final table would become.
After all the sanding its time to pick a stain. This was a difficult choice because there are so many variations.
My choice was KONA.
This is a non-affiliate link, I don’t have the traffic yet to warrant an affiliate link. But that is not going to stop me from sharing my experiences with products. https://www.homedepot.ca/en/home/p.varathane-ultimate-stain-kona-946ml.1000833138.html
As I progressed through this build it made sense to me that i should finish each board before i assembled them.
Below is another mock-up of the table deciding what to use as the top and the order the boards will take. I did use a Varathane to seal the wood and make the final finish easier to apply.
This next step is the most important. Assembling the boards together. There are many options for this step again, my choice is to use pocket-holes
And for this i choose to use the Kreg-Jig which i have been pleased with, and was inspired to choose this from other bloggers that I follow.
This is the table top after lots of work. Waiting for finishing coat.
You may not be able to tell but on the picture below I’ve added a couple coats of https://www.homedepot.ca/en/home/p.varathane-ultimate-stain-kona-946ml.1000833138.html
This next section is the build for the legs that i finally decided to use for this project.
The picture below is from pinterest and of course i cant find the link now .
My legs are not going to be quite so heavy as these but I’ll be using a similar style.
The first important decision is the height of your table, which i believe I’ve made a post earlier. For my table i’m making it a height of 30″ inches.
For this step you will have to take the thickness of all your wood that your going to use.
I’m using 2×4’s. I started with the base of the legs, and made the feet.
For my build I’m setting the width of 30 inches and made a cut on each end of 45 degrees. I will show how i was able to add up all the parts to equal the height of 30 inches that i want.
So for each part of the leg i calculated the total overall height the leg had to be if i wanted a 30 total. So you have to take into account the feet at the bottom, the base, then the center post. Then the top of the leg that will attach to the table underside. Don’t forget to take into account the table thickness as well.
You see the post has a space. That is for the cross-member that will tie the two legs together under the table, just as you see in the inspiration picture. Although mine isn’t quite so thick. I’m using a 2×4 for the cross member.
The picture above you see the 2×4 spacer i used to make the cross member space. And that’s how i was able to put the center post together. I married the 2x4s together from right to left using a combination of construction adhesive, screws and clamps to make sure nothing moved as i assembled the wood together. This picture is just a dry fit before i attach the base to the center post and the top plate. Then i will attach the parts that will form the X design.
In this picture above i have attached the post into the base, and i’m happy to say it has lined up just as i hopped. The key is to find the center on the base which i took the measurement from the top of the 45 degree cut i made to the other side. Then divide that by 2 and you will have your center of the board. That is where you mount the post.
If your measurements are correct and you take your time the center support between the two ends will line up perfectly 🙂 Which I’m happy to say it did for me 🙂
Here is the result of mounting the posts to the base and the top support for the table. I used a 2×4 for a mock-up fit for the support between the two end sections.
Next step is the X for the ends 🙂
This was a very challenging step. I don’t know all the uses and angles that are on a miter saw. So i use a tool called an angle finder.
Mine is similar to the one in this link … I think its time to update this tool
The idea here is to set the angle finder at the base, in this case its the base of the table and the other is to find the angle to cut the wood so you can
get the X design. It requires some trial and error so have some extra 2×4 scrap wood around to practice on 🙂
My next step and one of the final ones is to sand and prime the X for paint. Use your wood filler to fill any small gaps or unwanted holes.
The photo below is the X Frame leg that has been sanded, filled, and primed. The final step for me is to lightly sand the primer and then paint.
UPDATE March 27th
Since my last post I’ve painted both X frame legs and the 2×4 cross support. I had to sand the ends of the 2×4 cross support because it was a tight fit to begin with but with the added paint mad the fit really tight.
I used Chalk paint for the white. Linen white from Home Hardware
There are still some final finishing points to do, like centering it on the table top, some sanding and sealing the paint.
But here you can see the final fit of the X frame and cross support. If you want to make sure your X frame is correctly balanced and flush just put it on the floor and it shouldn’t tip over.
And the final part is the top.
And here is the final result of my biggest build to date.
Here is a new Decoupage sign. This time I used a image from Pinterest of a whale. It was a free stencil for a tattoo and put it on a wood slice that i had. The wood slices are available from Michael’s but you can also check out Dollar Stores.
I followed the same steps as i did with my other projects that seem to work well for me .
The most important step is to sand, paint and seal your project before you do your image transfer.
I seal with lacquer, I find that it gives the best surface to apply your image too.
HI everyone !! I have to say that when i started to make signs with my router, I wanted to find a way to make a stencil so I
wouldn’t have to setup the pantograph router every time. Which does take a long time. I have to admit it is really fun, but it only reduced the letters and what if i wanted to make larger signs. Some how that led me into using adhesive spray and glue the paper straight onto the wood.
It does work really well, but then i was looking at images and logos. This has led me down to MOG PODGE
Please look on pinterest for lots of ideas and tutorials.
I found this one that explains the easy process.
So I’ll be starting my own projects soon. 🙂 I’m really excited !!
I recently ordered my Mog-Podge kit from Amazon. I was impressed with the speed of the delivery.
The Kit consisted of the contents shown below.
As my first experiment i decided to try something basic such as Image transfer. The process is simple.
1st Choose your image you wish to transfer. I decided to do 3 types. Two were signs of local businesses, and the other a picture i edited to be a black and white.
I used a regular brush and spread the Mod-Podge evenly across the board surface then carefully place the paper on top of the covered surface.
Then use your roller or something that you can press the paper into the surface. Get out as much of the air bubbles as possible. work from the center outwards.
The image above shows my test projects after i’ve rolled out the images. Now is the hard part…. Letting it dry for 24hrs.
When its completely dry the next step is a little messy too. Now you take a damp cloth and cover your work. Let it sit for about 5 minutes. Now gently use your rag and rub the image area to remove the paper. This will come off in clumps and leave your image intact. !! 🙂
So spend some time and don’t be in a rush on this part. I know its hard because of your excitement 🙂 But the results are worth it!!
My latest project used my desire to use reclaimed wood when ever i can, and my new technique in using Mod-Podge.
My client required a foot stool and wanted their logo on the side. They gave me an idea of the colors they wanted.
So I decided to Chalk Paint the stool and gave it a white wash, beach look. I`ll be posting more detail about this build as soon as I can.
Now the thing with Chalk paint and Mod-Podge is that you have to seal your paint before you can add your Decoupage LOGO. There are many different ways to achieve this but I choose to keep it simple.
The steps are quite simple once you built your item or restored it , or what ever you are doing.
I choose to use chalk paint because i know it and its easily accessible, although there is a new paint out there called
Fusion Paint, which I have not yet used.
After painting to your satisfaction I decided to seal the paint with lacquer . This made a hard seal so adding the decoupage was easy and no risk of rubbing off the paint.
As the images show my first of many projects to come were a success.
Remember every one have fun and experiment