Hello friends now that i finish the Pallet Trunk I have also been working on a Harvest Table. Now I know what your going to say ” There Huge!!” Well generally yea they are on the large size.
I was able to get some reclaimed 2×6, 2×8’s and some bigger. Some were 8 feet and longer. When i got them home , I have to really look at them. Some had big cracks and wouldn’t work for what i had in mind. SO instead of dumping them, I used the table saw and ripped the ones i couldn’t use into 2×4’s and 2×2’s
So right now just finished the last steps of stain the table top and added the first coat of Polycrylic.
Because ive used reclaimed wood my original plan was to make two 5 foot tables that i could put together to make one large one. That dint work because there were too many that had cracks in them. *Lesson in reclaimed wood. You have to adapt to what you get.
Here is the finished table !!
This is a shot of the wood when i got it.
After selecting the best 2×6’s for the table, with no cracks and best character i sanded all the dirt and weathered surface.
This took several passes with the belt sander working from 60 grit to 150 and finally 220. Below was a mock-up of what the final table would become.
After all the sanding its time to pick a stain. This was a difficult choice because there are so many variations.
My choice was KONA.
This is a non-affiliate link, I don’t have the traffic yet to warrant an affiliate link. But that is not going to stop me from sharing my experiences with products. https://www.homedepot.ca/en/home/p.varathane-ultimate-stain-kona-946ml.1000833138.html
As I progressed through this build it made sense to me that i should finish each board before i assembled them.
Below is another mock-up of the table deciding what to use as the top and the order the boards will take. I did use a Varathane to seal the wood and make the final finish easier to apply.
This next step is the most important. Assembling the boards together. There are many options for this step again, my choice is to use pocket-holes
And for this i choose to use the Kreg-Jig which i have been pleased with, and was inspired to choose this from other bloggers that I follow.
This is the table top after lots of work. Waiting for finishing coat.
You may not be able to tell but on the picture below I’ve added a couple coats of https://www.homedepot.ca/en/home/p.varathane-ultimate-stain-kona-946ml.1000833138.html
This next section is the build for the legs that i finally decided to use for this project.
The picture below is from pinterest and of course i cant find the link now .
My legs are not going to be quite so heavy as these but I’ll be using a similar style.
The first important decision is the height of your table, which i believe I’ve made a post earlier. For my table i’m making it a height of 30″ inches.
For this step you will have to take the thickness of all your wood that your going to use.
I’m using 2×4’s. I started with the base of the legs, and made the feet.
For my build I’m setting the width of 30 inches and made a cut on each end of 45 degrees. I will show how i was able to add up all the parts to equal the height of 30 inches that i want.
So for each part of the leg i calculated the total overall height the leg had to be if i wanted a 30 total. So you have to take into account the feet at the bottom, the base, then the center post. Then the top of the leg that will attach to the table underside. Don’t forget to take into account the table thickness as well.
You see the post has a space. That is for the cross-member that will tie the two legs together under the table, just as you see in the inspiration picture. Although mine isn’t quite so thick. I’m using a 2×4 for the cross member.
The picture above you see the 2×4 spacer i used to make the cross member space. And that’s how i was able to put the center post together. I married the 2x4s together from right to left using a combination of construction adhesive, screws and clamps to make sure nothing moved as i assembled the wood together. This picture is just a dry fit before i attach the base to the center post and the top plate. Then i will attach the parts that will form the X design.
In this picture above i have attached the post into the base, and i’m happy to say it has lined up just as i hopped. The key is to find the center on the base which i took the measurement from the top of the 45 degree cut i made to the other side. Then divide that by 2 and you will have your center of the board. That is where you mount the post.
If your measurements are correct and you take your time the center support between the two ends will line up perfectly 🙂 Which I’m happy to say it did for me 🙂
Here is the result of mounting the posts to the base and the top support for the table. I used a 2×4 for a mock-up fit for the support between the two end sections.
Next step is the X for the ends 🙂
This was a very challenging step. I don’t know all the uses and angles that are on a miter saw. So i use a tool called an angle finder.
Mine is similar to the one in this link … I think its time to update this tool
The idea here is to set the angle finder at the base, in this case its the base of the table and the other is to find the angle to cut the wood so you can
get the X design. It requires some trial and error so have some extra 2×4 scrap wood around to practice on 🙂
My next step and one of the final ones is to sand and prime the X for paint. Use your wood filler to fill any small gaps or unwanted holes.
The photo below is the X Frame leg that has been sanded, filled, and primed. The final step for me is to lightly sand the primer and then paint.
UPDATE March 27th
Since my last post I’ve painted both X frame legs and the 2×4 cross support. I had to sand the ends of the 2×4 cross support because it was a tight fit to begin with but with the added paint mad the fit really tight.
I used Chalk paint for the white. Linen white from Home Hardware
There are still some final finishing points to do, like centering it on the table top, some sanding and sealing the paint.
But here you can see the final fit of the X frame and cross support. If you want to make sure your X frame is correctly balanced and flush just put it on the floor and it shouldn’t tip over.
And the final part is the top.
And here is the final result of my biggest build to date.
Here is a new Decoupage sign. This time I used a image from Pinterest of a whale. It was a free stencil for a tattoo and put it on a wood slice that i had. The wood slices are available from Michael’s but you can also check out Dollar Stores.
I followed the same steps as i did with my other projects that seem to work well for me .
The most important step is to sand, paint and seal your project before you do your image transfer.
I seal with lacquer, I find that it gives the best surface to apply your image too.
HI everyone !! I have to say that when i started to make signs with my router, I wanted to find a way to make a stencil so I
wouldn’t have to setup the pantograph router every time. Which does take a long time. I have to admit it is really fun, but it only reduced the letters and what if i wanted to make larger signs. Some how that led me into using adhesive spray and glue the paper straight onto the wood.
It does work really well, but then i was looking at images and logos. This has led me down to MOG PODGE
Please look on pinterest for lots of ideas and tutorials.
I found this one that explains the easy process.
So I’ll be starting my own projects soon. 🙂 I’m really excited !!
I recently ordered my Mog-Podge kit from Amazon. I was impressed with the speed of the delivery.
The Kit consisted of the contents shown below.
As my first experiment i decided to try something basic such as Image transfer. The process is simple.
1st Choose your image you wish to transfer. I decided to do 3 types. Two were signs of local businesses, and the other a picture i edited to be a black and white.
I used a regular brush and spread the Mod-Podge evenly across the board surface then carefully place the paper on top of the covered surface.
Then use your roller or something that you can press the paper into the surface. Get out as much of the air bubbles as possible. work from the center outwards.
The image above shows my test projects after i’ve rolled out the images. Now is the hard part…. Letting it dry for 24hrs.
When its completely dry the next step is a little messy too. Now you take a damp cloth and cover your work. Let it sit for about 5 minutes. Now gently use your rag and rub the image area to remove the paper. This will come off in clumps and leave your image intact. !! 🙂
So spend some time and don’t be in a rush on this part. I know its hard because of your excitement 🙂 But the results are worth it!!
My latest project used my desire to use reclaimed wood when ever i can, and my new technique in using Mod-Podge.
My client required a foot stool and wanted their logo on the side. They gave me an idea of the colors they wanted.
So I decided to Chalk Paint the stool and gave it a white wash, beach look. I`ll be posting more detail about this build as soon as I can.
Now the thing with Chalk paint and Mod-Podge is that you have to seal your paint before you can add your Decoupage LOGO. There are many different ways to achieve this but I choose to keep it simple.
The steps are quite simple once you built your item or restored it , or what ever you are doing.
I choose to use chalk paint because i know it and its easily accessible, although there is a new paint out there called
Fusion Paint, which I have not yet used.
After painting to your satisfaction I decided to seal the paint with lacquer . This made a hard seal so adding the decoupage was easy and no risk of rubbing off the paint.
As the images show my first of many projects to come were a success.
Remember every one have fun and experiment
Hello, with many builds i’m doing and have done the one thing ive had to figure out is the standard measurements for a variety of tables.
So i found this link to help other DIY builders.
Hello friends its Feb 24th and i have been slow on my posts, but if you build yourself and run a blog you know how trying to keep up with both can be challenging to say the least.
I’ve been working on this new project the PALLET TRUNK but I’ve been also working on a small harvest table. If you check out my FB page you can see my builds.
I saw some great inspiring trunk pictures on Pinterest. This is the first inspiration trunk picture i found.
Now because im working with pallet wood you have to make sure you try and use as close as you can the same wood for the project. You need to use as close to the same dimensions. Length, width, thickness.
Sorry for the blur.
For my Trunk I used some reclaimed 2×2’s for the corners.
Next you need to decide what your trunk dimensions will be…. I decided on 20 inches deep, that’s front to back. 16 high, and 30 inches long Left to Right.
Begin with cutting the 2×2’s the height you want for your trunk. Mine was 16 inches.
I start with the sides. Cut you wood, whatever your using to the depth you have chosen. As i said, I decided on 20 inches. As it turned out, i needed four boards per side. These boards were very close to 1×4’s.
This is where the Ryobi nailgun is really useful. It doesn’t take long to assemble any project with this nailgun.
The next step is cutting the boards that will be the front and back of the trunk. That’s the fron and back of the trunk.
By this point you should have a box similar to the picture above..
Don’t forget to put in rails 🙂 You need them if your going to have a bottom in your trunk 🙂
Here is the trunk with the bottom now in place. To save yourself a lot of headache when you cut your boards sand them before you install them.
I also installed rope handles. I went to our local craft store and grabbed some craft rope. Simple choose the location you want your handles, drill your hole, measure and cut enough rope that feels comfortable. Tie a knot on the inside and you have your handles.
I just went down the width of the first side palette and drilled the holes.
The top was the next step.
This step i had to modify a little. I didn’t anticipate the installation of the hinges. I had some fence hinges. So I had to resize the top a little for it to work.
After the fit and open lid test, it worked out perfect.
As you can see i also decided to burn the wood. This helps with wood protection and brings up the grain.
As I was looking through Pintrest for other trunk ideas, I saw some that had shelves inside and i thought it might be a nice addition, as well as someone had stained it Honey. I was lucky enough that I had some Honey color gel stain.
This is a simple but useful post on removing nails from pallet boards. I used a small pallet and made it into my jig
Next step is to place you board with the nails on the jig, nail side up. As you can see I have the nails in the middle of the jig.
Its handy to have a small sledge hammer to make the job easier. Just pound the nail back through the board.
From here its a simple matter of using your crow bar and pry out the nails, which should be an easy job.
And there you have is a pallet board ready for you next project.
And here is the start of my next project. A pallet trunk.
I’ll be posting my pallet trunk build
Hello friends , I have finally recovered from being sick for about a week and have finished a special sign project.
One thing you learn when your woodworking is the ability to adapt and change your techniques on the fly.
This latest project was to make a special memorial sign for a friends dog that was in an accident and had to be put to sleep.
This project started as a router idea but that quickly changed due to the fine detail that i wanted to put into the sign. Using the router was not going to be efficient.
In order for me to transfer this image to the wood i had to do some editing and change this picture into a high contrast image.
I used Photoshop to edit out the color and turn it into a simple line art. After my first editing attempt the picture was not exactly how i wanted it but i was able to set up the rest of the picture.
I used MS Publisher to create the layout for my sign project.
I found some scrap wood that i used for other projects and used the Kreg Jig to marry three pieces of wood together.
I was proceeding as i did the first time when i was using my router to make the sign by spraying the back of the paper to the wood. But my attempts on doing it this way didn’t work. As you can see trying to router the dog was not going to be the easiest thing to do.
So after a couple attempts i had to come up with another way to make this sign. That’s when i went to Pinterest and found info on transferring images from plain copy paper to wood using nothing but a wood burner.
Here is the link i found that helped me to complete my sign .. http://www.instructables.com/id/Transferring-Images-to-Wood/
As a finishing touch I also wood burned the sign when i finish transferring the image of the dog.
HAPPY NEW YEAR 2018
And the first build is done
Cedar Bed Frame
Hello friends its 2018 and its full steam ahead !!! I had a client that ordered a bed frame in December but I had to finish up a couple other builds.
Her request was that it be organic and have slats for her organic mattress instead of a box-spring. I immediately thought of using cedar timber.
The toughest challenge for this build was to have it fit in between her nightstands in her room. So the frame couldn’t be too much bigger than the mattress itself.
The finished bed frame finished with linseed oil.
I’ll be adding the build process shortly 🙂
I wish everyone a very Happy New Year !!
I’m so excited how things are progressing , lots of stuff coming up and stuff that i need to catch up on. More stuff to learn in blogging and starting to add video of things i learn while building and blogging
Hope everyone sticks around and I thank you all very much 🙂
MERRY CHRISTMAS !!
Pallet Christmas Tree Grove
This was a fun project to do. I found the inspiration on Pintrest of course. There is such a variety of ways to do this, I chose to do the easiest.
Find your pallet, good or bad looking ones Get your circular saw , a straight edge. The straight edge can be a straight piece of wood or metal.
You just need it as a guide to mark out your cut. These don’t have to be perfect.
After removing the sides of the pallet and the back, you have your Christmas tree. 🙂 Now you can make as many as you want and different sizes.
I painted mine Christmas green and red. I used a white spray to make little snow on the tree.
I used 1×4 scrap to make stakes, to pound into the ground so i could anchor the trees. And simply screw the 1×4 into the side of the pallet .
Run your lights, add what ever you want and presto your own unique Christmas display for your home. I just used some extra lights we had so i didn’t get to fancy with my first display.