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Hello friends now that i finish the Pallet Trunk I have also been working on a Harvest Table. Now I know what your going to say ” There Huge!!” Well generally yea they are on the large size.
I was able to get some reclaimed 2×6, 2×8’s and some bigger. Some were 8 feet and longer. When i got them home , I have to really look at them. Some had big cracks and wouldn’t work for what i had in mind. SO instead of dumping them, I used the table saw and ripped the ones i couldn’t use into 2×4’s and 2×2’s
So right now just finished the last steps of stain the table top and added the first coat of Polycrylic.
Because ive used reclaimed wood my original plan was to make two 5 foot tables that i could put together to make one large one. That dint work because there were too many that had cracks in them. *Lesson in reclaimed wood. You have to adapt to what you get.
Here is the finished table !!
This is a shot of the wood when i got it.
After selecting the best 2×6’s for the table, with no cracks and best character i sanded all the dirt and weathered surface.
This took several passes with the belt sander working from 60 grit to 150 and finally 220. Below was a mock-up of what the final table would become.
After all the sanding its time to pick a stain. This was a difficult choice because there are so many variations.
My choice was KONA.
This is a non-affiliate link, I don’t have the traffic yet to warrant an affiliate link. But that is not going to stop me from sharing my experiences with products. https://www.homedepot.ca/en/home/p.varathane-ultimate-stain-kona-946ml.1000833138.html
As I progressed through this build it made sense to me that i should finish each board before i assembled them.
Below is another mock-up of the table deciding what to use as the top and the order the boards will take. I did use a Varathane to seal the wood and make the final finish easier to apply.
This next step is the most important. Assembling the boards together. There are many options for this step again, my choice is to use pocket-holes
And for this i choose to use the Kreg-Jig which i have been pleased with, and was inspired to choose this from other bloggers that I follow.
This is the table top after lots of work. Waiting for finishing coat.
You may not be able to tell but on the picture below I’ve added a couple coats of https://www.homedepot.ca/en/home/p.varathane-ultimate-stain-kona-946ml.1000833138.html
This next section is the build for the legs that i finally decided to use for this project.
The picture below is from pinterest and of course i cant find the link now .
My legs are not going to be quite so heavy as these but I’ll be using a similar style.
The first important decision is the height of your table, which i believe I’ve made a post earlier. For my table i’m making it a height of 30″ inches.
For this step you will have to take the thickness of all your wood that your going to use.
I’m using 2×4’s. I started with the base of the legs, and made the feet.
For my build I’m setting the width of 30 inches and made a cut on each end of 45 degrees. I will show how i was able to add up all the parts to equal the height of 30 inches that i want.
So for each part of the leg i calculated the total overall height the leg had to be if i wanted a 30 total. So you have to take into account the feet at the bottom, the base, then the center post. Then the top of the leg that will attach to the table underside. Don’t forget to take into account the table thickness as well.
You see the post has a space. That is for the cross-member that will tie the two legs together under the table, just as you see in the inspiration picture. Although mine isn’t quite so thick. I’m using a 2×4 for the cross member.
The picture above you see the 2×4 spacer i used to make the cross member space. And that’s how i was able to put the center post together. I married the 2x4s together from right to left using a combination of construction adhesive, screws and clamps to make sure nothing moved as i assembled the wood together. This picture is just a dry fit before i attach the base to the center post and the top plate. Then i will attach the parts that will form the X design.
In this picture above i have attached the post into the base, and i’m happy to say it has lined up just as i hopped. The key is to find the center on the base which i took the measurement from the top of the 45 degree cut i made to the other side. Then divide that by 2 and you will have your center of the board. That is where you mount the post.
If your measurements are correct and you take your time the center support between the two ends will line up perfectly 🙂 Which I’m happy to say it did for me 🙂
Here is the result of mounting the posts to the base and the top support for the table. I used a 2×4 for a mock-up fit for the support between the two end sections.
Next step is the X for the ends 🙂
This was a very challenging step. I don’t know all the uses and angles that are on a miter saw. So i use a tool called an angle finder.
Mine is similar to the one in this link … I think its time to update this tool
The idea here is to set the angle finder at the base, in this case its the base of the table and the other is to find the angle to cut the wood so you can
get the X design. It requires some trial and error so have some extra 2×4 scrap wood around to practice on 🙂
My next step and one of the final ones is to sand and prime the X for paint. Use your wood filler to fill any small gaps or unwanted holes.
The photo below is the X Frame leg that has been sanded, filled, and primed. The final step for me is to lightly sand the primer and then paint.
UPDATE March 27th
Since my last post I’ve painted both X frame legs and the 2×4 cross support. I had to sand the ends of the 2×4 cross support because it was a tight fit to begin with but with the added paint mad the fit really tight.
I used Chalk paint for the white. Linen white from Home Hardware
There are still some final finishing points to do, like centering it on the table top, some sanding and sealing the paint.
But here you can see the final fit of the X frame and cross support. If you want to make sure your X frame is correctly balanced and flush just put it on the floor and it shouldn’t tip over.
And the final part is the top.
And here is the final result of my biggest build to date.