BackYard DIY Builder

Building for the love of it

2020 Catch up Post

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Welcome to 2020 !!!

And already its looking good 🙂

I was able to deliver a shorter harvest table, proof that a harvest table doesn’t have to be 10ft long and cost thousands of dollars.

 

 

This table was only 4 ft long, stained with a honey oak. But it was a little too yellow for my taste so i added a little darker stain to tone down the yellow.  I’m happy to say the client loved her new Kitchen size harvest table.

 

The second build for this year was a short and wide bookshelf.

Since i work better with a visual aid.. I asked my client for a picture of what they were thinking.

 

 

Sample picture                                                                                                Client custom book case

 

The client liked the weathered grey stain so we went with that and the rustic look with the grain showing.

BOAT SHELF BUILD

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I have an order to build a boat shelf… I’ll be sure to take pictures and blog about this one because i haven’t done anything like this before.

 

But isn’t that the fun of building?? New challenges like this ?  🙂

When I saw boat shelf builds on pintrest I looked for plans on line and of course there are many build variations. The trick is to find one that suites you.

Me , I like using pallet wood when ever i can.  So i decided to use pallet wood for the sides and shelves for my boat shelves.

I used 1×6 spruce wood for the back and bottom shelf since that’s the most important part in order to get the best fit and straight lines.

When i decided on a height for my boat I put together 4 1×6 boards and attached cross stringers along the back. This was simply a 1×4 and a 1×2.

Finding the center is crucial for the look of your boat. Once you have that then drawing free hand from the side to the center point.  Use a jigsaw to cut out one side. Flip the off cuts to the uncut side and use that as your template.  Now you should have identical sides.

 

Once i finished the back, my next step was the bottom that’s why i added one more strip along the bottom so i have something to attach the shelf onto and add more strength to the frame of the boat shelf now.

 

 

Now that you have the basic frame done, the fun of attaching the sides begins. I decided to attach a properly sized piece of pallet wood and nail it onto the back of the shelf.

I personally found this much easier that trying to fit larger single pieces of sheet wood for the sides. I also nail each side piece into the one under it.  This increases the strength and keep your work straight…. Well as straight as possible 🙂

 

When you finish attaching all your pieces on the sides the next step is to figure out where you want the shelves. Take a measurement where you want your shelf and cut to fit.

I attach extra support on the sides to assist holding the weight that your customer may wish to put on the shelf… I always try to over build my products a little.

In addition to the side supports I also screw the shelf in from the back.

 

 

Now that all your shelves are done, the final step is the trim. This is a trial and error step with several fit checks.

 

I started with the top and worked my way down, since the top i think is the most critical to get aligned and straight.

Here were the critical point of attaching the trim. The bottom was next part to go on and to align the top and bottom much easier.

 

 

This was the 3rd boat shelf i made.

My 4th would be a little taller and deeper.

 

Too many Builds and Little Blog Time

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You know when things are getting better when you have build orders and little time to blog.  🙂

So I’m going to do a catch up post now. But if your looking for up to date posts you should look at my Instagram account.

https://www.instagram.com/backyarddiybuilder/?hl=en

 

Just recently I had an order to make a couple of treasure chest style trunks.

As with 90% of my builds now I’ve learned to make the sides first. This way you have the height and width of your build complete.

This is just the way I do my projects, there are many different ways others may do their own.. All I can suggest is look at what others are doing and try it.

If you figure your own way, that’s great. It just makes your project more you. Because every blogger and DIY person finds their style.

Sorry NO Progress pictures on this post but i’ll update it on the next build.

So this time i was using new wood. Mainly 1×4’s , 2×2’s and some 1×6 stock wood.

So with this project i started to get the info the client wanted for the TOTAL height , Length, and Width.  When i had the height they wanted i first reduced it by 6 inches since thats the height of the CURVED LID.

The first step for me is to cut the legs to the proper height. Then add your side wood. For me this would be the 1×4’s  As it turns out i used 5 boards for each of the sides.

The next step is to cut for the length, what would become the front and back of the chest. that was 30 inches.

When this is all done you would have a box with no bottom. 🙂

I used 1×2’s and measured the inside bottom of the box. Cut the 1×2 to length and screw and glue FROM THE INSIDE. This hides the screw heads inside.

Next was to install the bottom of the trunk.  I decided the bottom would be stronger if i ran the boards front to back instead of length ways left to right. It was simple job of measuring inside fron to back and cut the boards. I also used my nail gun and wood glue for each board.

 

The top would be a little more tricky with the curve BUT  i had a template from a previous build… It was used for my first treasure chest build. Like the turn I made this time but smaller.

For the curved sides i used the 1×6 wood. The kind of wood is completely up to your client.  Simply copy your template onto the new wood your using for your project.

Having a jig-saw is extremely useful for this, it would be on the must have list for any diy person.

Once you have both pieces cut, you need to sand them so they are as close to being the same curve as possible.

 

Then its a simple  job to attach the wood onto the curved sides. I used 1×4’s and 1×2’s for the curve.  Then yes once again sand it down as much as you can to give your top the curve feel.

Sand, and sand .. and sand some more and when you place the top on the box part it should fit perfect on top… Don’t worry too much about the wood being a touch off.

Wood is not perfect. But you can sand both together to get that perfect fit.

 

 

HVLP Gravity Feed Paint Sprayer

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Recently my Homeright paint sprayer broke down in the middle of a project, which caused a little bit of a scramble to finish. I have to say it has been a very reliable sprayer and great results for various projects.

But it is fairly expensive and I needed something quick, so I ordered the HVLP sprayer from Princess Auto. It was on sale and got to me within a week and being on the Sunshine Coast comes in really handy.

I picked this for one main reason and its because if professional auto-body shops use it maybe I’ll give it a try:-)

It even came with a regulator which is very important in using this tool.

 

Because I didn’t know a thing about these sprayers i went to uTube and watched some videos on assembly and spray techniques.. I recommend this to everyone.

I don’t know why there are different sizes in the needle but i assume its to do with the material you want to spray. This one is a 2.3mm

The picture that’s above shows what came in the box except for the inline air/water filter i had to get separately. This removes water vapor from the line so it doesn’t contaminate the paint.

So this comes with the gun itself, tools, cup, and regulator.

I also recommend you watch some videos on how to take this apart for cleaning.

One extra step i took was that i added teflon tape to the threads to prevent paint leak from the cup, and some on the threads where you add the air hose too.

 

After assembly and some playing around with the air pressure i also followed some advice and filled the cup with water and played around with the adjustment knobs so i knew what it did before i put paint in the cup.

My first spray test/project was a dresser fat boy.  Sorry i didn’t take any before pictures.

But here is the result and I’m very happy with it considering i haven’t had much experience refinishing and spray paint.

Honeycomb Pallet Shelves

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Hello All 🙂  Yes i’m still here even though my blog hasn’t been keeping up.. But when you one person trying to build, promote and blog things tend to get put aside.

My Pallet planter ladder has been a huge hit and its been quite the challenge to keep up with orders, thus the result of my lack of blog posts 🙂

Today i’m going to share my latest idea to combine the honeycomb shelf with the ladder concept.

This starts out just like i would make one honeycomb shelf, and that’s to decide how big to make each shelf, and cut 6 pieces to my desired length.

On this project I cut each piece at 8 inches.

Don’t forget  to cut both ends a 30 degrees set on your miter saw.

The next step is to assemble all your pieces together to make the frame of the honeycomb shelf.

After all the work of nailing and gluing your ends together you will have your framework done for your shelves.  Once again i also decided to burn the wood to bring out the grain.

The next part is simple and that to make a bottom on each frame. The way you do this is totally up to up , but i like to place each piece on the one side of your frame and pencil the outline cut .

This is the time consuming part, but that just apart of building.

When i finished i had to do a little more sanding and burning.  The big step was to set up the shelves to be attached to the legs. If you can align your shelves so they all kinda match it makes attaching the legs a little easier.

When i start attaching the shelves to the legs, which im using 2×2’s for this project. I pick one shelf and place it on something that will make the shelf even and off the floor.  Then i attach each 2×2 on the desired side of the shelf keeping everything flush.

When i go to attach the next shelf i have a pre-made spacer that i use so each shelf is a equal distance away from the other.

When your done you should have finished your shelf unit:-)

Project complete.

 

But i wanted to change it up a little so i found some chalk paint (Tropical cocktail )

 

With a final touch of white on top of the chalk paint gives the shelf a nice beach look.

 

 

Pallet Planter Ladder Builds going Crazy!!

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All I can say is wow wow wow !! When you find a good item that people like the demand goes through the roof !!

I was not expecting the response i got with my pallet planter ladder that i did.  I had orders like crazy. I didn’t want to disappoint anyone.

So i took orders from people who were interested on a first come first serve basis. When i started on a clients order i asked for a deposit, that way they were guaranteed a ladder.

And the balance was due upon completion.

 

I start this project as i start any pallet project, and that the breakdown of the pallets. With this project i had to cut the time down in breaking down the pallets i need,

So i made a choice of cutting in between the stringers. I used the length of wood i recovered from between the stringers to use for the planter boxes on the ladder.

I use a 1×6 board of common wood like spruce for the base. The sides i cut roughly 3.5 to 4.5 inches, the same width as the pallet wood im going to use

for the front and back of the box.

The base and sides cut and nailed together, ready for the front and back pallet wood to be attached.

 

 

 

The front and back of the box are attached, just have to trim the sides for a better finished look.

 

Finished 4 boxes , ready to be a ladder.

 

 

Spring Builds

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Hello everyone we are now into April and spring time builds are going crazy !! 🙂 I’m focusing on stuff for the garden and patio.

The first is my pallet planter ladder.

These have been extremely popular as soon as i make one its gone, so i had to make a client waiting list..

The other popular garden item I’ve been making are cedar planters. I also have been using as much reclaimed cedar wood as possible.

 

 

New Year and New Builds

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HI everyone I know I’ve made a new years resolution to make more posts, but as with life things come up.

But i haven’t been resting, oh no. I’ve been busy busy. I’ve been thinking of new products to make since spring is coming !!

How about some Milking style stools 🙂  Slightly lower to the ground to make it easy to do your gardening. They also have a built in handle.

available in many finishes.

 

Another project came from the wife who wanted a small trunk for the end of our bed. SO it had to be a certain height and width.

And it had to also act as a small puppy step.

Me being the guy that want to use reclaimed wood first, i decided on pallet wood of course.  I used the required size and made the trunk accordingly.

I used the same method that I’ve been using for most of my builds, and that is to build the sides first. This way you get the height and depth already made

then its just a matter of creating the length.

Adding trim around your build

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Today i want to share how i do trim for my builds. Everyone has their own technique that works.

You have to find what works best for you. I’m just going to share my technique its simple and it works for me.

When I first started to do trim it was alot of trial and error.

TIP 1.  INCLUDE YOUR TRIM IN YOUR MEASUREMENTS !!!

I cant stress this one enough, it will save you lots of stress and bad cuts.

Here i using some scrap 1×2’s taped on either side of the table i want to add trim to.  This simple step will save your headaches later.

Simple tape your scrap wood to the sides of you project that you want to add trim to, and take your measurement. And do that for at least two sides.

the length and width of your project.

Now that you have your correct measurement you can now cut your trim and even take off the end that will make your 45 degree cut on each side of your project.

More pictures to come and even a small jig to correctly align your trim around your project.

2019 X Style Coffee Table

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Hello and Happy New year everyone, I’m happy to bring you my first build of 2019

A X style coffee table. This client previously ordered a coffee table for a Christmas gift and was so happy with it they decided to order one for them selves 🙂

I’m using the plans from Ana White with a slight modification.

http://www.ana-white.com/2012/07/plans/rustic-x-coffee-table

With all builds the measurements are the most important information you need especially when its a custom build.  The height, length, and width.  We also have to account for the actual lumber sizes.

a 2×4 isn’t a true 2 inch by 4 inch, its more like 1.75 x 3.75

I found it easier to make the ends first then attach the stringers between them next. This is all the builders choice. Some people like to follow the instructions exactly but each has to find their own way.

This particular build I decided to make the top first, because the client wants specific dimensions.  I’m using 5 spruce 2×6 lumber for the top and the bottom shelf.

 

I cut each piece of lumber the desired length and kregJig each together to create the top. Then lots of sanding.

Next, I made the sides and remember to always  take into account the size of the lumber into your measurements.

I choose to use 2×4’s for the sides and the stringers for the table length instead of the 2×2’s that the plans used. I’ve found that 2×2″s don’t offer the same strength as 2×4’s.

Hear you can see the ends of the table are 2×4’s, and the top two stringers are also 2×4’s  As I do with most of my builds i assemble them upside down of a flush surface, that keeps everything straight and flush.  The one 2×4 you see at the bottom is just to hold the lower part straight and flush.

 

In the instructions 2×2’s were used on top and bottom. The problem i found was to fit the lower shelf in between the two 2×2’s.

I decided to build the bottom shelf the same way i did the top, Kreg jig 2×6’s together and cut to the proper length.  It was also here that the challenge was to have the sides cut flush so there wouldn’t be any over hang in front or back.

This is the assembly of the bottom shelf that i Kreg Jig together.  I used 1×2’s to create a assemble frame, and keeps everything square and flush.

When the assembly was finished, there was a slight overhang so i had to trim off a slight amount on both sides.

The line you see is what i calculated to remove for the front and back of the lower shelf.

then i had to measure how far back from the line had to be for the saw to cut a straight line. In this case its 1.5 inches from the blade to the side where the saw is sitting up against.

I did this to get the same effect as a track saw. I used a piece of mdf shelf board for my straight edge.

As a tip i am working on the underside of the shelf where all the pocket holes are. To secure the board to the shelf i used my nail gun to tack the board on. It worked like a charm 🙂

 

Now that the bottom shelf is cut, i used a couple pieces  of scrap wood so i could put the shelf on it and align it to the table sides.

 

The lower shelf is in place ready to be kreg jig into place.

 

 

I used a pipe clamp to tighten the sides into the bottom shelf. That way everything is aligned and tight.

I put in two screws on each board end for extra holding strength, and some wood glue.

 

After some drying time i removed the camps and turned the table around. The shelf looks just like I hopped it would. Flush and straight on all sides.

Yea this was a little more work that just putting in some plywood between the stringers shown on the plans but I like it just as much. 🙂

 

 First coat of paint is on the base. Next step is to fill the holes and sand again, then install the X on the sides.

 

 

Putting the X into the X Style

 

There are many ways of putting the X into your build. Some people can get the angles cut bang on with no problems.

However with people like myself that have a hard time with the angle numbers I’ve come up with a way to cut these angles with minimum hair pulling 🙂 LOL

There is still some measuring and fine cuts to make.

 

STEP 1.  Cutting your wood stock for the X

Take your measurement from corner to corner, cut your wood stock slightly larger.

As shown the tape shows around 21 inches. So maybe cut 21 and a half.of your wood stock.

I’m using 2×2’s for my X

 

 

STEP 2 Cut your wood and place it on your project.

 

As you can see in this picture i have my piece of wood set on the side of the coffee table,

If you look carefully you can see i positioned the wood corner to corner on the table. This is critical to get your angle to cut right.

 

The trick is to mark your angles on the underside of your 2×2.

 

The two pictures above show the pencil marks with the cut angles.. Now it is very important to align the pencil marks with your chop saw and clamp it down.

 

STEP 3 Install the first piece of the X

 

 

The fit should be tight enough that you can easily tap the piece into position, and hold on its own.

I did NOT use glue on this because it would just make a mess and it more for decoration.

However i did use 2 inch finishing nails to secure it into place. Then some wood filler for the nail holes.

STEP 4  Repeat Steps 2 and 3 for the next part 

 

 

At this point you will need to mark the underside just like you did with the first one, but this time you have to include the marks in the middle of the X where the pieces meet.

I don’t use glue here either, it just gets messy and the X is for decoration. I use my Ryobi nail gun to secure the wood into place and some wood filler to obviously fill the nail holes.

 

And that completes one side… Told you it wasn’t too tough but it does take time to make it right.

 

This completes the base of the coffee table

Now its time to sand and fill holes before painting.

 

Here is the base after alot of sanding, filling holes and i also added a couple coats of primer before the final spray.

With all the prep work the result is a professional finish. I also sprayed 2 light coats of white and finished it off with 2 light coats of Varathane.

 

The top was a little easier to finish. I stained and sanded then stained again.  I also finished it of with a couple coats of Varathane.

then finally the time for assembly and finished product.