You know when things are getting better when you have build orders and little time to blog. 🙂 So I’m going to do a catch up post now. But if your looking for up to date posts you should look at my Instagram account. https://www.instagram.com/backyarddiybuilder/?hl=en Just recently I had an order to make a […]
Hello and Happy New year everyone, I’m happy to bring you my first build of 2019
A X style coffee table. This client previously ordered a coffee table for a Christmas gift and was so happy with it they decided to order one for them selves 🙂
I’m using the plans from Ana White with a slight modification.
With all builds the measurements are the most important information you need especially when its a custom build. The height, length, and width. We also have to account for the actual lumber sizes.
a 2×4 isn’t a true 2 inch by 4 inch, its more like 1.75 x 3.75
I found it easier to make the ends first then attach the stringers between them next. This is all the builders choice. Some people like to follow the instructions exactly but each has to find their own way.
This particular build I decided to make the top first, because the client wants specific dimensions. I’m using 5 spruce 2×6 lumber for the top and the bottom shelf.
I cut each piece of lumber the desired length and kregJig each together to create the top. Then lots of sanding.
Next, I made the sides and remember to always take into account the size of the lumber into your measurements.
I choose to use 2×4’s for the sides and the stringers for the table length instead of the 2×2’s that the plans used. I’ve found that 2×2″s don’t offer the same strength as 2×4’s.
Hear you can see the ends of the table are 2×4’s, and the top two stringers are also 2×4’s As I do with most of my builds i assemble them upside down of a flush surface, that keeps everything straight and flush. The one 2×4 you see at the bottom is just to hold the lower part straight and flush.
In the instructions 2×2’s were used on top and bottom. The problem i found was to fit the lower shelf in between the two 2×2’s.
I decided to build the bottom shelf the same way i did the top, Kreg jig 2×6’s together and cut to the proper length. It was also here that the challenge was to have the sides cut flush so there wouldn’t be any over hang in front or back.
This is the assembly of the bottom shelf that i Kreg Jig together. I used 1×2’s to create a assemble frame, and keeps everything square and flush.
When the assembly was finished, there was a slight overhang so i had to trim off a slight amount on both sides.
The line you see is what i calculated to remove for the front and back of the lower shelf.
then i had to measure how far back from the line had to be for the saw to cut a straight line. In this case its 1.5 inches from the blade to the side where the saw is sitting up against.
I did this to get the same effect as a track saw. I used a piece of mdf shelf board for my straight edge.
As a tip i am working on the underside of the shelf where all the pocket holes are. To secure the board to the shelf i used my nail gun to tack the board on. It worked like a charm 🙂
Now that the bottom shelf is cut, i used a couple pieces of scrap wood so i could put the shelf on it and align it to the table sides.
The lower shelf is in place ready to be kreg jig into place.
I used a pipe clamp to tighten the sides into the bottom shelf. That way everything is aligned and tight.
I put in two screws on each board end for extra holding strength, and some wood glue.
After some drying time i removed the camps and turned the table around. The shelf looks just like I hopped it would. Flush and straight on all sides.
Yea this was a little more work that just putting in some plywood between the stringers shown on the plans but I like it just as much. 🙂
First coat of paint is on the base. Next step is to fill the holes and sand again, then install the X on the sides.
Putting the X into the X Style
There are many ways of putting the X into your build. Some people can get the angles cut bang on with no problems.
However with people like myself that have a hard time with the angle numbers I’ve come up with a way to cut these angles with minimum hair pulling 🙂 LOL
There is still some measuring and fine cuts to make.
STEP 1. Cutting your wood stock for the X
Take your measurement from corner to corner, cut your wood stock slightly larger.
As shown the tape shows around 21 inches. So maybe cut 21 and a half.of your wood stock.
I’m using 2×2’s for my X
STEP 2 Cut your wood and place it on your project.
As you can see in this picture i have my piece of wood set on the side of the coffee table,
If you look carefully you can see i positioned the wood corner to corner on the table. This is critical to get your angle to cut right.
The trick is to mark your angles on the underside of your 2×2.
The two pictures above show the pencil marks with the cut angles.. Now it is very important to align the pencil marks with your chop saw and clamp it down.
STEP 3 Install the first piece of the X
The fit should be tight enough that you can easily tap the piece into position, and hold on its own.
I did NOT use glue on this because it would just make a mess and it more for decoration.
However i did use 2 inch finishing nails to secure it into place. Then some wood filler for the nail holes.
STEP 4 Repeat Steps 2 and 3 for the next part
At this point you will need to mark the underside just like you did with the first one, but this time you have to include the marks in the middle of the X where the pieces meet.
I don’t use glue here either, it just gets messy and the X is for decoration. I use my Ryobi nail gun to secure the wood into place and some wood filler to obviously fill the nail holes.
And that completes one side… Told you it wasn’t too tough but it does take time to make it right.
This completes the base of the coffee table
Now its time to sand and fill holes before painting.
Here is the base after alot of sanding, filling holes and i also added a couple coats of primer before the final spray.
With all the prep work the result is a professional finish. I also sprayed 2 light coats of white and finished it off with 2 light coats of Varathane.
The top was a little easier to finish. I stained and sanded then stained again. I also finished it of with a couple coats of Varathane.
then finally the time for assembly and finished product.